When it comes to skincare, myths and misinformation are everywhere — from social media trends to old wives’ tales passed down through generations. But how do you know what’s actually true? To cut through the noise, we spoke with Dr. Annie Liu, a licensed dermatologist who shared — and debunked — some of the most common skincare myths she has encountered as an expert in her field. Whether you’re battling breakouts or just trying to build a better routine, her expert insights will help you separate fact from fiction and make smarter choices for your skin.
As the Co-Founder of DermCafé, Canada’s only, national, rapid-access, covered dermatology clinic, and throughout her career as a dermatologist, Dr Annie has made it her mission to make dermatology more accessible to Canadians. Canada is in a dermatology care crisis, with fewer than 700 Dermatologists serving Canada’s 40 million population. Through DermCafé Dr. Lam and her team of over 40 Dermatologists and GP-Derms have delivered over 90,000 video appointments to over 60,000 patients in over 250 Canadian cities, while maintaining wait times of no longer than 2 weeks.
We asked Dr. Lam what myths she has been dying to debunk, and here’s what she had to say:
- “Mineral is automatically better than chemical sunscreens” / “Natural ingredients are always safer than chemicals.”
This is false! Chemical and mineral; for example those containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, sunscreens work in different ways. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them into heat, while mineral sunscreens reflect them. Chemical sunscreens have the potential to offer broader-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays, while some mineral sunscreens are actually less effective against UVA (the rays that cause skin aging)!
A derm secret from myself is that I strongly prefer chemical sunscreens, because they’re always more cosmetically elegant (aka smoother & more lightweight), with sometimes better efficacy and no safety concerns, when compared to mineral sunscreens. Finally, the term “chemical” isn’t inherently bad—everything, including the ingredients in mineral sunscreens, is a chemical! In the end, what actually matters most isn’t what exact brand/formulation it is, but how well the consumer uses the product – which should be every two hours when exposed to UV rays!
- “You can’t get sunburned in the water.”
Completely false! Water can actually reflect sunlight, which increase your sun exposure! That’s why you can still burn while swimming or snorkeling, especially if you’re not wearing water-resistant sunscreen. Additionally, UV rays can penetrate water and clouds, so even on overcast days or when submerged underwater, you’re still at risk for sunburn and long-term damage. Reapplying sunscreen every two hours—and immediately after swimming—is crucial.
Derm tips: Always look for a sunscreen that says, “water resistant”, which means it’s effective in water. Beside that, it will have a number, either “40” or “80” – ideally choose “80”, which means the sunscreen remains effective for up to 80 minutes in water! (After that time, you must reapply for continued protection)
- “Oily skin doesn’t need moisturizer.”
Totally false! Even oily skin needs hydration. Skipping moisturizer can actually make oil production worse, as your skin may overcompensate for the lack of moisture by producing more oil (sebum). The key is choosing the right type of moisturizer—look for oil-free, non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores), or gel-based formulas. These provide hydration without adding excess oil or shine and help maintain a healthy skin barrier.
- “You can erase your pores.”
Inaccurate! You can’t permanently erase your pores, but you can make them look smaller. I totally understand the desire to control our skin/health. But, like many things about our health, pore size is mostly genetic. But clogged or dilated pores can appear larger. Ingredients like retinoids, salicylic acid, and niacinamide help keep pores clean and improve skin texture. Sunscreen also helps, because sun damage can break down collagen and make pores appear bigger over time. Finally, any in-office cosmetic procedures that simulate collagen (the skin protein that makes your skin smooth, firm and elastic), such as microneedling, peels, certain lasers, can also reduce the appearance of pores. Think of your goal as minimizing their appearance, not removing them entirely.
- “A base tan protects you from sun damage.”
This is a dangerous myth! A tan is an undeniable sign of skin damage—not protection. Simply put, w a base tan just cannot prevent sunburn or long-term damage like premature aging or skin cancer. Relying on a tan instead of proper sun protection—like broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen, protective clothing, and shade—puts your skin at serious risk!
If you’re looking to learn more about your skin and skincare needs, or are just sick of waiting ages for a dermatology appointment, check out Derm Cafe today!
Nadia Elkharadly
Latest posts by Nadia Elkharadly (see all)
- Community Rocks – a party with a purpose this November - November 18, 2025
- The Weeknd Donates $350,000 to Hurricane Relief efforts in Jamaica - November 16, 2025