Behind the thick wooden door of Brownyn is a dark, rustic restaurant decorated in a Bavarian tavern style. Black iron chandeliers hang above a long, wooden table looking out at days of yore. Outside, a patio (or biergarten) lined with picnic tables offers a bright and cozy dining location.
Located in Union Square in Somerville, Massachusetts, this restaurant offers culinary creations inspired by German and greater Central and Eastern European cuisines. The food menu is compliment with a number of biers and weins with similar geographic roots. Chef Tim Wichmann hand crafts the sausages, schnitzels, noodles and sauerkraut – the classics.
We began with a pierogi starter. A few large, house-made pierogi stuffed with spinach and aged cheddar were topped with a sweet pea relish and mint. The sweet pea topping was incrediblt tasty — so much so that we devoured it all before I had a chance to snap a pic. However, the main dishes are below. They were so filling we had no room for dessert (perhaps next time)!
Wagyu Beef Sauerbraten
This was the winner of the table! Brisket slow roasted in vinegar on a bed of curried carrots and purslane. The tender meat melted in your mouth and the rich flavors were strong without overpowering the palette.
This plate came with two types of wurst – cotechino (pig skin, cinnamon, clove) and thuringer bratwurst (veal, pork, egg) – accompanied by potatoes, sauerkraut, and mustard. Unfortunately, the texture of the sausages left something to be desired. It was watery and mushy. The sauerkraut, however, was quite nice.
This pasta dish was made from an apparently classic schwabian pasta, adorned with fresh corn, red onion marmalade, comte cheese and tarragon. The lightest and freshest tasting of our dishes.
Not so light was this noodle dish. Trentino-style blood pasta with beef and a bright green herb that tasted fresh and sea-like (I’m saddened to discover not only did I forget the name of this ingredient, but it doesn’t appear to be on their online menu). Though hearty and heavy, this dish was delicious and would be ideal in colder weather.
Because all the food was so rich, a light beverage best complimented our meal. I opted to try a new cider, but the Stiegl Radler was another excellent option.
If you’re in the area and appreciate a hearty meal, check it out! See the full menu in their website.